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Set ups Pros and Cons

 
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Dean



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 287
Location: California

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:08 pm    Post subject: Set ups Pros and Cons Reply with quote

I just put a bone nut on my 335 ,and I will probable put bone nuts on the rest of my guitars that do not have them.I am in the process of learning how to set up gutairs,replace nuts ,make them from scratch..string spacing, pick up , bridge,neck etc. I know it is just me but I really do not like plastic and resin stuff.I want organic materials,tone materials on my guitars.Stuff that will take a beating and get better.I am guessing ,but I think most people just take the gutair as is when they buy it.A really well set up guitar makes a big difference.I am going to replace my plastic bridges with bone or wood ,too.Just wondered what people in here thought about set up wise.Call me crazy but ,my guy switches the pots...pot used for tone ,use it for volume..and the pot used for volume use it for tone....it gives you more control...try it.
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woland99



Joined: 31 Mar 2007
Posts: 155
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never tried changing nut on electric. One time I did it on acoustic
(nut and saddle) Taylor 410 - bone ones made that guitar much
brighter. It may be interesting idea for my 335 - after I put P90s
on it it seems to be on a darks side.

JT
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marksound



Joined: 27 Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Call me crazy but ,my guy switches the pots...pot used for tone ,use it for volume..and the pot used for volume use it for tone....it gives you more control...try it.


Did "your guy" tell you why he switches the pots?

As far as I know, there are only 2 different kinds of pots: audio and linear taper. Guitars generally use audio taper for both volume and tone. The only other difference is the resistance, with 250k ohm most common for Fender-style guitars and 500k ohm for Gibson style. There are exceptions, but that's pretty much the rule. The only reason to switch location of the pots is if they were different ratings or types, as far as I know, anyway.

Then again, I'm wrong a lot. Laughing
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Dean



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 287
Location: California

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marksound....he did but It was a little over my head....I will get him to tell it to me in writing and get back to you on it.I just know whatever he does gives you more control...like more ranges of volume..you know you got 1 thru 10 on the knob but it does not go up and down that smoothly.The taper is more responsive.I guess next time I post something I will have all my info together.I guess you can tell I'am a doer .I learn by doing and watching...I don't question why to much..if it works it's good and if not I find another way.That why I could never teach.I have taught people how to do things by showing them ,not telling them.Anyway I will get back to you on it.
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marksound



Joined: 27 Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a basic description of the difference in pots from GuitarElectronics.com:

Quote:
Audio and Linear taper pots have the same total resistance but differ in which position of rotation the pot will reach the 50% value. Linear pots are usually marked with a B or Lin (examples 250KB, B250K, 250K Lin) and will reach 50% of its total resistance in the 50% rotation point. Audio taper pots are usually marked with an A or Aud (examples 500KA, A500K 500K Aud) and will decrease most of the resistance in the last 50% of the rotation. This can give a more gradual audio reduction is some cases. Most manufactures and builders either use Audio taper pots for volume and tone or linear for volume and audio for tone. However, if a problem of exists where a volume or tone pot has no effect on the sound, try a changing the taper. How to check the taper with an ohm meter: Set the pot to the center position (50% rotation) and measure the resistance between the center pin and each of the outer pins. If the resistance is equal (50% of the pots value) the pot is linear. If the values are not equal, the pot is an Audio taper.


http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiringresources.1basicwiringfaqs/
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Dean



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 287
Location: California

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marksound.....Here is the reason....Pots are available with 'Audio' or 'Linear' taper.
Linear taper means the pot's value is exactly half, when the pot is turned half way.
Audio means you have to turn the pot about 3/4 until it measures half of it's value.
That's because the human ear always needs 10x more volume to perceive twice the volume increase.
Audio taper helps when used in amplifiers once the signal has gain and is much larger.
Traditionally audio pots are always used with volume and linear pots for tone controls.

If placed right after a weak magnetic pickup, the opposite should be done.
I always reverse the audio and linear pots on guitars, as it makes more sense to the ears and is more practical....Hope this helps
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marksound



Joined: 27 Apr 2007
Posts: 26
Location: OKUSA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's pretty much what I said, right up until the last part where we're exactly opposite. Confused
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nylenny



Joined: 31 Mar 2007
Posts: 291

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you guys checked out the Buzz Feiten tuning system? He uses a special nut and other adjustments to get better intonation over the board. I can't really explain how it works, but I have played a guitar that has it, and it sounds great.
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Dean



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 287
Location: California

PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have looked at it ,it is basicly extending the nut over the fret board.I have not tried one yet.
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